Despite our long and complex love affair with French food, just how much do we in Britain know about a typical French Christmas? Mickael Weiss, head chef at Coq d’Argent, comes from Angers in the Loire Valley, but moved to London two weeks before his 18^th birthday. He shares some French home memories and Christmas tips…

Le réveillon

Le réveillon on Christmas Eve forms the main feast for most French families, with Christmas Day a more humble affair. Historically, it was the supper eaten immediately after returning from Midnight Mass (re-veiller meaning to begin a new watch). Even for families who choose not to attend Mass, Le réveillon is still the main Christmas meal – Mickael’s family would traditionally begin theirs at about 5pm and carry on to the early hours.

“I remember very well as a kid, up to 24 around the table,” says Mickael. “We would start with an early aperitif and canapés, followed by seafood such as cooked prawns and oysters. Then we would have a terrine of some sort; most of the time foie gras or game, followed by poached fish like bass with beurre blanc.

“After a swift mid-course Trou normand [a shot of alcohol to aid digestion, traditionally Calvados or fruit brandy, sometimes served with sorbet] the main would be roast goose or duck and small birds like pigeon and pheasant wrapped in pancetta. For pudding, a classic frozen log was our favourite and cheese would be left at the table, but we would all be too full to eat it.”

“Best was the morning after: a large coffee and croissant plus loads of clementines or satsumas. Lunch would consist of leftover cheese, sandwiches and so on.”

The French v English roast

Having lived in the UK for a while, Mickael says he tends to scale down the starters now and place them in the centre of the table for people to help themselves. He then serves an “English-style” roast, although French influences remain:

“Here you have the stuffing with breadcrumbs, which we wouldn’t use – making it with chestnuts instead. For garnish we might also glaze some chestnuts and make carrots vichyssoise as well as roasting veg. I think we put more preparation into our vegetables than the English tend to. Now, my roast changes every year – venison, duck, pheasant, goose…”

“This year at Coq d’Argent people will be able to choose from 11 different meats. I like doing a big menu with lots of things for people to share – rack of lamb or whole goose – I think sharing food is great at Christmas. For that reason I’m calling it A partager à Noel.”

Further information:

Read Mickael’s Christmas menu or book a table at Coq d’Argent.

If you’re interested in sourcing French food for your own French-inspired feast, Mickael recommends Tres Soigné, which has supplied him for the past 15 years.

Visit Mickael’s website.