If a wine expert started talking to you about enomatic machines, you would be forgiven for feeling the conversation had strayed into esoteric wine territory. But enomatic machines enable restaurant diners to drink fine wines by the glass, rather than buying a whole bottle, making those wines a lot more affordable.
Enomatic systems dispense wine direct from the bottle using inert gas, which preserves the opened bottle of wine over a period of days or weeks (depending on the wine).
So why should you care if a restaurant has an enomatic machine? Olivier Marie, head sommelier at Coq d’Argent, talks about seven special wines, only available at the restaurant by the glass thanks to its enomatic machine. The wines were matched with six different courses at a recent wine bloggers dinner (see the reviews below).
He explains what makes these wines so special…
The wine: Pinot Gris Cuvée Laurence Domaine Weinbach 2005
Why so special? “This is an off-dry Pinot Gris 2005 from the undisputed best producer of Alsace, Domaine Weinbach, a bio-dynamically certified domaine run by mother Colette and daughters Catherine and Laurence. Cuvée Laurence comes from the bottom part of the Altenbourg where the soils are made of marl and limestone. It is always rich and intense and has a good, refreshing acidity.”
The wine: Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon Domaine Leflaive 2008
Why so special? “Anne Claude Leflaive is undoubtedly one of the best producers in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. Like Domaine Weinbach, her wines are made following a biodynamic approach and she never fails to deliver some of the most complex wines of the Cote d'Or. This Clavoillon 2008 has hints of dried fruits as well as hazelnuts and bitter almonds. It also has a steely, earthy minerality, perfect with something like a parsnip purée.”
The wine: Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs Denis Mortet 2004
Why so special? “Making good Pinot Noir is difficult, but making excellent ones is an art. The late Denis Mortet just nailed it with this blend of five parcels, namely Motrot, Vellé, Combe du Dessus, En Derée and En Champs, located in the village of Gevrey. This is a 100% oak-aged Pinot Noir from Mortet. Its smoky, empyromatic character with notes of roast coffee and pronounced stone fruit like dark cherries is perfect for coq au vin.”
The wine: Châteauneuf du Pape Château La Nerthe cuvée des Cadettes 2004
Why so special? “This is a blend of very old Grenache (some vines are more than 100 years old), Syrah and Mourvedre grapes from the best plots of la Nerthe. It has an animalesque character and a graphite-like minerality as well as notes of provençal herbs.”
The wine: Saint Emilion Chateau Troplong Mondot Grand Cru 1995
Why so special? “This property is owned by Christine Valette and Xavier Pariente, who have in a very short space of time elevated it to the highest ranking within its appellation. Merlot prevails in this blend, making up almost 70%, and aromas of truffle with fleshy tannins would work well with wild mushrooms or other ‘forest’ flavours.”
The wine: Saint Estephe Château Montrose 1996
Why so special? “This is one of the longest-lived wines in Bordeaux. It’s always powerful, but never without the finesse and elegance found in the best Bordeaux. It incorporates a vast array of aromas, ranging from sandalwood to gingerbread and pencil shavings.”
The wine: Vouvray Moelleux Reserve Clos Naudin Philippe Foreau 1989
Why so special? “This Vouvray comes from a legendary vintage. It is a multi-dimensional botrytised wine offering a wide spectrum of flavour from quince jelly and baked apples to intense marmalade, blood orange aromas and beeswax and acacia honey. It has a penetrating acidity, which would balance a dessert like apple tart thin with Roquefort cheese.”
Further information:
Read more about the food served with these wines and the reviews of wine bloggers Wine Passionista, Winesleuth and Big Pinots.
Wines available in the Coq d’Argent enomatic machine change periodically. At present Château Mouton Rothschild 1988 is also available to sample at £20 for 25ml, £40 for 50ml, £80 for 100ml or £100 for 125ml.
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